Blog Posts in Category: Dolomites

Saas Pordoi Via Maria Climb

On the last day of out holiday we decided to climb the classic Via Maria up the south face of the Sass Pordoi. This is a 370m 8 pitch climb (+ 3 pitches of moving together at the top) which is graded at VI+ or about UK Hard Severe. As it was a long route we wanted to leave plenty of time, and we didn’t really want to spend the day queueing if we could avoid it we decided to have a really early start. This worked out as we were the first team on the route, however as it turns out there was actually only one other team on the route that day anyway! As it was a long route, and I have had previous issues with the Rockfax guidebook I searched around the internet for better route descriptions. I found this one which seemed much better for most of the route: https://www.multi-pitch.com/climbs/via-maria-on-sass-pordoi-south-face/ After a harsh start to the day with the steep climb out of the car park, with tired legs we were soon at the climb. Most of the climbing was brilliant with good rock and interesting. Read the full article…

Passo Pordoi Sunrise

We were meant to be getting an early start to ensure we were first on the route, but despite my best efforts I could not avoid taking a photo of the stunning sunrise which occurred from the Pordoi Pass while we were gearing up. The first photo is taken handheld at high iso as I was still trying to not get the gear out, but eventually my resistance failed and the tripod came out for the second photo. Landscape photography does not get much more accessible than this, as they were literally taken from a tarmac car park!

Val Duron Via Ferrata – Laurenzi-Molignon

On our second day from the Rifugio Alpe di Tires we were going to do the Laurenzi-Molignon via ferrata, which crosses the impressive ridge which you look at as you walk up Val Duron. The description in the Rockfax guidebooks described it has having lots of poorly protected downclimbing on loose cable, thankfully since the guide has been written the route has been fully re-equipped so it is now well protected with good cable. After a short approach from the hut we were soon at the start of the cable. The first section was very easy and took us up to a nice section of ridge walking with fantastic views over Val Duron. We also found a surprising bench which was ideally situated, if only it was late enough to have lunch at that point! We were soon at the start of the proper route, and it certainly did not disappoint on exposure! We spent a significant amount of time scrambling with a massive drop which felt like it went all the way down to Val Duron below us. The new cable meant that it always felt safe, and the. Read the full article…

Rifugio Alpe di Tires Landscapes

I again decided to carry my tripod and landscape photography gear with me up Val Duron to the Rifugio Alpe di Tires. Unfortunately this time was probably the least successful use of the equipment, however I still got some nice images. Thankfully this time we didn’t have climbing gear, or winter equipment and we had worked out what we really didn’t need to carry so out bags were much lighter. I didn’t manage to get out for sunrise due to having consumed a bit too much red wine the night before while socialising with some people we met in the rifugio.