Blog Posts in Category: Mountaineering

Saas Pordoi Via Maria Climb

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Rock Climbing Short Link

On the last day of out holiday we decided to climb the classic Via Maria up the south face of the Sass Pordoi. This is a 370m 8 pitch climb (+ 3 pitches of moving together at the top) which is graded at VI+ or about UK Hard Severe. As it was a long route we wanted to leave plenty of time, and we didn’t really want to spend the day queueing if we could avoid it we decided to have a really early start. This worked out as we were the first team on the route, however as it turns out there was actually only one other team on the route that day anyway! As it was a long route, and I have had previous issues with the Rockfax guidebook I searched around the internet for better route descriptions. I found this one which seemed much better for most of the route: https://www.multi-pitch.com/climbs/via-maria-on-sass-pordoi-south-face/ After a harsh start to the day with the steep climb out of the car park, with tired legs we were soon at the climb. Most of the climbing was brilliant with good rock and interesting. Read the full article…

Val Duron Via Ferrata – Laurenzi-Molignon

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Via Ferrata Short Link

On our second day from the Rifugio Alpe di Tires we were going to do the Laurenzi-Molignon via ferrata, which crosses the impressive ridge which you look at as you walk up Val Duron. The description in the Rockfax guidebooks described it has having lots of poorly protected downclimbing on loose cable, thankfully since the guide has been written the route has been fully re-equipped so it is now well protected with good cable. After a short approach from the hut we were soon at the start of the cable. The first section was very easy and took us up to a nice section of ridge walking with fantastic views over Val Duron. We also found a surprising bench which was ideally situated, if only it was late enough to have lunch at that point! We were soon at the start of the proper route, and it certainly did not disappoint on exposure! We spent a significant amount of time scrambling with a massive drop which felt like it went all the way down to Val Duron below us. The new cable meant that it always felt safe, and the. Read the full article…

Val Duron Via Ferrata – Sentiero Massimiliano

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Via Ferrata Short Link

With an excellent multi day weather window we decided to head up to Rifugio Alpe di Tires which is situated at the top of the beautiful Val Duron. From this rifugio there are two classic via ferratas which are known for having stunning views, and they certainly did not disappoint. We decided not to pay for the shuttle bus up to the start of Val Duron and made the walk up, this was steep right from the start and not a particularly pleasant way to start the day. Thankfully we were rewarded with a beautiful view up Val Duron towards the col which was hiding the rifugio. The walk along Val Duron was beautiful, and we made great time so before we knew it we were at top of Passo Duron. All that was then left was a final ascent up to the hut. After arriving at the hut we discarded most of our kit and headed out for the short via ferrata. It is graded as VF2B, so we decided to leave our kit off and only put it on if we felt like we needed it. This made. Read the full article…

Vajolet Towers – Torre Delago – Piaz Arete

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Rock Climbing Short Link

We had much better weather on our second day at the Vajolet Towers. As we were staying in the fantastic Rifugio Re Alberto we were the first to our route. We had heard lots of excellent comments about the route, and about the level of exposure experienced and the route certainly did not disappoint. We soloed up the first easy pitch to the first proper belay on the route, this was on a ledge just to the right of the arete. The next pitch was the crux, it started up the right hand side of the arete, before getting to a ledge with some gear. At this point you had to make a tricky move out onto the arete, which suddenly put you above a massive drop into the valley below. Steady climbing up the arete then continued, which started to feel more and more airy as I edged up further away from the gear. A few more moves led to a ledge and some gear, before it all started again with another step out onto the arete. By this point 8 other people had arrived to do the climb,. Read the full article…

Vajolet Towers – Torre Stabeler Normal Route

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Rock Climbing Short Link

With a slightly mixed forecast we decided to head into the remote Rifugio Re Alberto to climb on the famous Vajolet Towers. Our main aim was for Piaz Arête which climbs the left hand arête of Torre Delago (left hand tower), however having not climbed for a while, and with the cloud which was around on the first day we headed for a slightly easer route, the normal route up Torre Stabeler, the central and highest pinnacle. We walked into the rifugio from the top of the Vajolet II chairlift, and made excellent time despite our horrible heavy bags. I again decided to carry my photography gear, but this time it was in addition to climbing gear! When we arrived at the rifugio we were very hot from the hard ascent, but as it was in the cloud it was pretty cold so we soon cooled down. After a coffee and a hot chocolate to warm up we headed over to our route, and thankfully as we left the hut the cloud cleared and mostly stayed away. We soloed the first easy pitch to get to the start of the. Read the full article…

Brenta Dolomites Day 2/2: Via delle Bocchette Centrale

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Via Ferrata Short Link

Continuing on from our first day and night on the Via delle Bocchette we set off after a leisurely breakfast on the classic central section of the traverse, the Via delle Bocchette Centrale via ferrata. The start of the day was a short climb up to the Bocca degli Armi, this is the section of the route which forced us to carry our crampons and ice axe as it involved a short cross of a dry glasier. We were not sure if we would actually need them, but when we got there we were very glad that we had them, even if only for 100m! When we got to the col it became apparent that there was a brilliant cloud inversion to the south, unlike the cloudless skies to the north. This provided us with yet more atmospheric views, but as we were earlier today the clouds remained firmly in the valleys. An strenuous start quickly lead us up to the highlight of the two days. The route crossed improbable ledges as it traversed around Torre di Brenta and Campanile Alto. No words can really describe how brilliant this section. Read the full article…

Brenta Dolomites Day 1/2: Sentiero Alfredo Benini & Sentiero Bocchette Alte

Alastair BegleyDolomites, Via Ferrata Short Link

We decided to start our holiday with a hut to hut in the Brenta Dolomites on the Via delle Bocchette, an area known for it’s stunning mountains which are surprisingly accessible due to the via ferratas which wind their way along ledges with ladders whenever the terrain becomes technical. Classic traverses tend to range between 3 and 5 days, however after much debating we decided to link days 1 & 2 together by doing Sentiero Alfredo Benini & Sentiero Bocchette Alte as a long first day which took us just over 8 hours. This took us to the stunning Rifugio Alimonta where we spent the night, before we completed the classic Via delle Bocchette Centrale on the second day. The descent out to the valley was also surprisingly enjoyable. We caught the first lift up and made good time to the start of the first via ferrata (Sentiero Alfredo Benini), however it soon became clear that we had misjudged the temperatures and were regretting our choice of clothing, and the number of layers which were packed in our bags. The start of the via ferrata was a good sign of. Read the full article…

Mittenwalder Höhenweg Klettersteig

Alastair BegleyBavaria, Via Ferrata Short Link

The start of our holiday had some fairly mixed weather forecast, so instead of going away and sitting in a campsite in the rain for two days we stayed local to Munich and made the most of the short period of excellent weather. With the potential for storms to come in later in the day, we were after a mid length route which started with a lift so that we were able to be high early to enjoy the good conditions. As it turned out we would have had all day, but it was the sensible decision to make sure we were not high on the mountains with storms forecast. Looking through the book of German Klettersteigs there were loads to choose from, but the Mittenwalder Höhenweg really caught my eye as it was an easy route which traversed along the top of a long ridge. We were expecting it to be fairly busy given that it was a Saturday but thankfully it wasn’t too bad. After a non socially distanced lift ride we were soon at 2250m and looking forward to starting the route. The views as soon as. Read the full article…