Blog Posts in Category: Arco

On our last day of climbing at Arco we headed into Parete Pezol with the rest of the group from the International Mountaineering Group section of the Munich branch of the German Alpine Club. It was a relatively recently bolted route which meant that it wasn’t very polished, but being limestone meant that it was quite likely there would be some loose rock. The walk in was really great with hardly any distance or ascent, and immediately with fantastic views over Lake Garda. We decided to climb Claudia 22 which was a 10 pitch UIAA 5+. The route was really fantastic with mostly pretty good climbing and sound enough rock, the highlight for me was the combination of the climbing with the wonderful position over the valley looking down Lake Garda. It was a shame that there was a single Italian team behind us, which did not want to give us much space on the belay and added unnecessary stress to the day. We arrived at the top shortly after the others in the group, where we enjoyed lunch before making the short descent back to the car and a. Read the full article…

Having not climbed for a while we decided to head back to the wonderful Val di Ledro, having previously had a wonderful day climbing there. This time we started up Babilonia which was a lovely route which looked out over Lake Garda, had interesting climbing and was really well bolted. The climb was four pitches and went pretty quickly, so after enjoying lunch at the top we decided to head back down to climb Plasir. This route also had brilliant climbing on it, however it was definitely not well protected (despite also being S1 in our guide) and I certainly regretted my lack of cams to aid the protection. The second pitch was proper slab pitch which certainly required trust of the feet and the final pitch has some wildly runout sections, initially up a crack and then some exposed face climbing at the top. After the second climb we made our way back to the car having climbed 7 pitches in time to enjoy a cold drink and some ice cream in Arco. Both of the route were quiet with no other teams and no polish to speak of. Read the full article…

After a day of paragliding at Bassano we returned to Arco for a final day of climbing before heading back to Munich to prepare for the arrival of some friends. We headed to the Val di Ledro, which looked like it was full of well bolted multi-pitch routes from UIAA 5+ onwards. We decided to climb Via Settimo Cielo as it was highly rated, only UIAA 5+ and with 4 pitches of proper climbing. The approach to the crag was slightly more involved than we had expected, as a climbing path wound it’s way around the base of the cliffs high above the old road below. Thankfully we had a gpx track to the start of the route, which certainly made finding it easier, and we were pleased to find the start of the route deserted. The route was absolutely stunning, with interesting climbing which was consistent at the grade, no polish and really well bolted. As we were climbing there were beautiful views both up the Val di Ledro and out onto Lake Garda. All too soon we were at the top, but due to a lack of preparation. Read the full article…

After the success of the previous day we set off for another three star multipitch route, but this time one within walking distance of the campsite. This route was significantly harder than the previous day’s route, however it was also advertised as a well bolted sport route. The route was an 8 pitch route with sections of UIAA 6, along with an A0 pitch in the middle. As we arrived at the climb there couldn’t have been a starker contrast with the previous day, as there was nobody else around at all. As I set off up the first pitch, which wasn’t difficult, I was slightly alarmed at the lack of gear and hoping that this was just inconsiderate bolting of easier pitches, rather than the definition of a well bolted climb! Thankfully as we moved towards harder climbing on the subsequent pitches the bolting significantly improved. The climbing was really enjoyable as it was a mixture of slab climbing and steeper feature based climbing up excellent limestone. As we made our way higher we could see the daunting aid pitch towering steeply above us, which became more intimidating as. Read the full article…

We decided to climb a route which we had previously climbed on our first day in Arco, as we knew if was an enjoyable route and some friends from Munich were also planning on climbing the route. The route is a 9 pitch UIAA 5-, which is adequately protected by bolts. Unfortunately being a both a high quality and easy multiplitch climb, the route is very popular. We didn’t arrive particularly early and found a long queue to get started on the route. Eventually Becky and I managed to get started and made our way up the first pitch which was an enjoyable warm up. As we were waiting to start the next pitch the team of three in front of us were not doing anything at the belay for ages, and appeared to be adding an extra pitch from their tree belay to the official belay, so we decided to overtake, which would turn out to be a very worthwhile decision. The next pitches were enjoyable with no real queuing and fun climbing. Unfortunately there was a major traffic jam at the base of the crux pitch due to. Read the full article…