Blog Posts in Category: Mountaineering

Val Duron Via Ferrata – Sentiero Massimiliano

With an excellent multi day weather window we decided to head up to Rifugio Alpe di Tires which is situated at the top of the beautiful Val Duron. From this rifugio there are two classic via ferratas which are known for having stunning views, and they certainly did not disappoint. We decided not to pay for the shuttle bus up to the start of Val Duron and made the walk up, this was steep right from the start and not a particularly pleasant way to start the day. Thankfully we were rewarded with a beautiful view up Val Duron towards the col which was hiding the rifugio. The walk along Val Duron was beautiful, and we made great time so before we knew it we were at top of Passo Duron. All that was then left was a final ascent up to the hut. After arriving at the hut we discarded most of our kit and headed out for the short via ferrata. It is graded as VF2B, so we decided to leave our kit off and only put it on if we felt like we needed it. This made. Read the full article…

Vajolet Towers – Torre Delago – Piaz Arete

We had much better weather on our second day at the Vajolet Towers. As we were staying in the fantastic Rifugio Re Alberto we were the first to our route. We had heard lots of excellent comments about the route, and about the level of exposure experienced and the route certainly did not disappoint. We soloed up the first easy pitch to the first proper belay on the route, this was on a ledge just to the right of the arete. The next pitch was the crux, it started up the right hand side of the arete, before getting to a ledge with some gear. At this point you had to make a tricky move out onto the arete, which suddenly put you above a massive drop into the valley below. Steady climbing up the arete then continued, which started to feel more and more airy as I edged up further away from the gear. A few more moves led to a ledge and some gear, before it all started again with another step out onto the arete. By this point 8 other people had arrived to do the climb,. Read the full article…

Vajolet Towers – Torre Stabeler Normal Route

With a slightly mixed forecast we decided to head into the remote Rifugio Re Alberto to climb on the famous Vajolet Towers. Our main aim was for Piaz ArĂȘte which climbs the left hand arĂȘte of Torre Delago (left hand tower), however having not climbed for a while, and with the cloud which was around on the first day we headed for a slightly easer route, the normal route up Torre Stabeler, the central and highest pinnacle. We walked into the rifugio from the top of the Vajolet II chairlift, and made excellent time despite our horrible heavy bags. I again decided to carry my photography gear, but this time it was in addition to climbing gear! When we arrived at the rifugio we were very hot from the hard ascent, but as it was in the cloud it was pretty cold so we soon cooled down. After a coffee and a hot chocolate to warm up we headed over to our route, and thankfully as we left the hut the cloud cleared and mostly stayed away. We soloed the first easy pitch to get to the start of the. Read the full article…

Brenta Dolomites Day 2/2: Via delle Bocchette Centrale

Continuing on from our first day and night on the Via delle Bocchette we set off after a leisurely breakfast on the classic central section of the traverse, the Via delle Bocchette Centrale via ferrata. The start of the day was a short climb up to the Bocca degli Armi, this is the section of the route which forced us to carry our crampons and ice axe as it involved a short cross of a dry glasier. We were not sure if we would actually need them, but when we got there we were very glad that we had them, even if only for 100m! When we got to the col it became apparent that there was a brilliant cloud inversion to the south, unlike the cloudless skies to the north. This provided us with yet more atmospheric views, but as we were earlier today the clouds remained firmly in the valleys. An strenuous start quickly lead us up to the highlight of the two days. The route crossed improbable ledges as it traversed around Torre di Brenta and Campanile Alto. No words can really describe how brilliant this section. Read the full article…