After a very successful trip to Pembroke last weekend, and some great mid week cragging it was time for a four day weekend for easter. Last year I spent easter doing a winter traverse of the Cuillin Ridge, this year I spent it climbing sea cliffs in the sun. I was supposed to be heading down to Cornwall, however due to lacking a climbing partner for Cornwall I decided to head to Pembroke with my Mum for two days, before having two family days. On the first morning we decided to head to range west which meant we had to head to the Castlemartin camp to attend a briefing, due to the live firing which occurs on this range. We decided to walk to the Fortress, which is about as far from a car park as you can get in Pembroke, being a 70 min walk according to the guide book! Thanks to the great new guide books, we found the crag easily enough and enjoyed a fantastic day climbing on remote sea cliffs hardly seeing another person. The rock in this part of Pembroke is completely different to the. Read the full article…

Last weekend had a good weather forecast with a dominant high pressure system in power, this combined with excellent tide times meant a trip to Pembroke, which is one of my favourite climbing destinations. There were four of us which headed to pembroke, myself along with Rich, Nick R and Steve. It was a very successful weekend where Rich and I climbed 3 E1s, 3HVSs and a HS in good style with no falls or rests, I was very glad to get another 3 E1 leads under my belt and am now starting to feel more confident at the grade. The first day was grey and breezy but dry and not too chilly, we started the day by heading to the legendary Mother Carey’s Kitchen, also known as Mother Scarey’s due to its intimidating nature. I started the morning by leading the classic E1, Rock Idol, which heads up a very distinctive corner and contains some brilliant, very sustained and steep climbing. I was very happy to get the route cleanly, especially due to the slightly greasy morning rock with the odd wet hold. We quickly made our way back. Read the full article…